Shakaka Unbound

Smoke Storm.

For the past week fires have raged in Eastern Washington.  The "Wenatchee complex" as it is known, is contributing to hazardous and unhealthy air quality in Wenatchee and Leavenworth.  Another fire on Mt. Cashmere in the Icicle canyon has lead to road and trailhead closures.  For Liz and I, this has meant a second look at our objectives and goals for these last few weeks of our stay here in Leavenworth.

With our buddy Scott back in town with the big white bull (bat) "Shakaka",  we were all in agreement on the idea of escapism, getting out of town and out of the smoke for a few days.  Scott had his eyes set on the iconic Washington Pass area, and we needed no more convincing, in a minute, our bags were packed and we were on the road towards Mazama.  With no clear objectives but to breathe some fresh air we drove up to Washington Pass and marveled at the immense monoliths of Liberty Bell, Concord, Lexington, North and South Early Winter Spires.  It was pretty obvious where we all wished to be; up there.  

Iconic Washington Pass.

Beaut'

Without ever having been to Washington Pas before we had no clue what to expect as far as people, popularity, time, or difficulty.  We made for a somewhat early start, leaving our objectives vague in case we had to adapt to other parties already climbing.  We aimed for the Liberty-Concord Col, and the Becky route in particular.  Lucky for us another party looking to get on the same climb was wildly off route offering us unimpeded transport to the top.  The climbing was clean and fun and in a spectacular setting.  Scott has been learning quickly and even swung a lead high up on the tower.  Getting to see him progress to this level of comfort and excitement with leading and alpine climbing has been inspiring.  

Scott sending the runout slab up high on Lib.  Still getting his coil down...

Gnar.

Another day was spent cragging at fun rock in Mazama, before we were headed back into the belly of the beast, eager for more of the thick smoke and pure granite of the Stuart Range.  

Scott had his eye on the west ridge of Prusik, which was good because we returned to Leavenworth to find that the Stuart Lake Trail head had been closed due to the Mt. Cashmere fire.  With only a night for turnaround, we re-packed our bags and made a break for the Snow Lakes the next day.  

Even though the smoke was thick we were all motivated for a purely human powered adventure.  We braved the smoke, pedaled slowly, and cruised our way up to the trailhead.  From here we had a ten mile, 5000 ish foot ascent to Naiad lake.  Deliverance to clean air, complete.

Into the clouds.

That night we reclined upon granite and watched as the fires raged over 20 miles away, happy to be out of the inversion.  

The next day dawned clear and we quickly made our way to Prusik Pass.  What can I say that hasn't already been said?  The climbing was impeccable.  Clean, solid, cracks and features enabled us passage up the classic and popular West Ridge.  We simul-climbed most of the route and were held up near the top by a less experienced party.  This turned out to be a good thing as we could enjoy our time on the route that much more.  Comfortable ledge, beautiful scenery, best friends, life is good.  

Getting high.

Looking down.

Loving it.

On Top.

Once on top Liz got to work rapping in on an obscure north face line to retrieve a camalot she spied on the way up.  Booty!  We soaked up the sun and watched the fires rage before beginning the descent.  

Liz dropping in.

Summit team.

Back at the pass we regrouped, packed up, and found a place to crash for the night.  A nearby flat rock provided a surface on which to scratch out some Hot Dice.  

Scoping out the next line...

That night we found another granite slab to recline upon and take in an amazing wild fire sunset.  It straight up looked like the gates of hell were opening up over Cashmere, Washington.  Fires visible beyond the pass below McClellan Peak.

Wow.

The next day we slogged back down to the trailhead, and pedaled our way home.  The smoke is stil thick down here and we won't stay for long.  Scott loaded up the beast Shakaka and flew off into the distance. 

None of us really thought the summer would end like this, impeded by smoke and unable, or rightfully unwilling, to subject ourselves to the hazards of the unhealthy air.  In town we don't feel like running, or even biking.  We've got to get our heads back above the smoke, back into the mountains, and get my hands back onto some stone.  

Larch trees starting to change.

Little Annapurna and the needles.

Fall.

Smoke Sky.

Goodnight.

Peace, 

Tim